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3mV

THANK YOU. This has saved me from pulling my hair.

Ok, thank you.

No, I don't know.

BTW, this controller from Crosser CR2 ebike.

Hi. Do you, by any chance, know what communication protocol this controller uses? I bought a new display in UART2 protocol and it shows «communication reception failure» error(E10).

Yes, NFC is integrated into display, and it wouldn't be that much of a problem if display would at least turning on, so I could just use a password, but it just completely died and was blinking like crazy before it happened. Anyway, new one comes in a few days, so it's doesn't matter anymore, but thanks for the answer.

They have active TG group: https://t.me/hscope/1

1) Check voltages

2) Try to change MCU module

3) Send high-res pics of board to check soldering quality and components MPN

Hi.

If NFC integrated into display I don't think so.

If NFC connected to the display with like with 3 wires (GND, VCC, SIGNAL) it should be possible.

It worth to check if wires and connectors from display to controller are fine and consider buy new/try to repair existing display.

When I turn it on, I don't get a line, but rather a noise with an amplitude of ~1.7 volts. Calibration doesn't help. I was powering it from a 3.7 volt battery, without the Wi-Fi module, and with a phone cable, the same thing happened. I touched the neutral terminal of the BNC jack with my finger and felt the interference.

radikal.cloud/i/1.czQdhg

The generator rectangle is therefore incorrect.

radikal.cloud/i/2.czTS8c

Is there any forum where this oscilloscope is discussed and I can ask there?

Hi. Is there a way to bypass display of the scooter with this type of controller? I have a scooter with same controller and display with NFC tags for «keys», but it's not working anymore. At first display turned on, but not always reacted to NFC tags, so i had to dial password almost every time, but now display doesn't turns on at all. And the controller do not have single thin red wire, near thick red and black battery wires, like other controllers do, which i could connect to a switch and use the scooter until new display arrives. I saw in some YouTube video that in the same case with ebike, you can connect red and blue wires that goes to display, and still use the bike with pedal assist, but it didn't work in my case, because my scooter doesn't have PAS censor and pedals. It only have a throttle which don't do a thing until you switch any «gear», which i can't do without display turned on.

I see:

I can't find ESP32 right now, so I checked it with cable:

1) Try to connect it using USB-C to USB-C cable

2) Try to use fully-charged battery as power supply (instead of USB)

3) Try to change probes

ibb.co/tP3QqZhr

Почему у меня столько помех? Я всё правильно собрал и перепроверил. Какие есть варианты?

Variable type can be obtained by selecting myVariables, exporting it to JSON format and there you can find variable name, addres and type.

Hi. After riding at heavy rain I left it for a week.

On the next weekend I tried throttle, but display showed Error message.

I removed controller board, cleaned it and replace two big aluminum electrolytic capacitors 1000uF 63V (their pins was damaged).

In your case the situation could be another, who knows how much the board is damaged.

Hello, I have one of these boards it got a little water now shorted can't find exact one out there it's from a 2024 bluvall b1 ebike

Muhh!!

From  the following relation we can calculate the unknown value of the internal pull-up resistor associated to a GPIO  pin that is configured as an input pull-up in the Arduino's sketch. 

I= (Vcc — Vfb) / R

having :

Vcc = 3.3V esp32 MCU power supply

Vfb =? V Forward V of the built-in LED 

I = 73.4uA measured LED current 

the calculated internal pull-up resistor value or magnitude is equal to:

R =  (Vcc — ?) / I

R = ((3.3 — ?)/73.4)*10^3 =  ?? kOhm.

I can't see image.

But it's not good approach for most applications since boost DC-DC converter and load will always drain battery.

1) XT1861B502MR-G (DC-DC IC)

From datasheet:

• 低静态电流：15µA
• Low quiescent current: 15µA

2) WS2812B-B/T (Addressable LED IC)

My measurements:

• Quiescent current: 720uA

3) SN74LV1T34DCKR (Level Translator IC for 3.3V -> 5V)

From datasheet:

• Static supply current: 1-10uA

That means (15uA + 720uA +1uA) ≈ 736uA will significantly affect on device sleep-mode current and to prevent additional power drain it should have additional switch.

Since typical system already has 3.3V switch and LED power relatively small it make sense to just connect boost DC-DC to it, instead of using additional switch.

I think powering boost DC-DC converter directly from battery would be a better solution then daisy-chaining one converter after the other

1. If powering from switching rail (like +3.3V_SW) — OK (because it will be disabled in sleep mode)
2. If powering from +3.3V rail — NOT OK, because it will cause significant additional current flow through resistor R1

That's why it's better to use two diodes and +3.3Vrail(you will save coin battery charge and power RTC from big battery)